I wrote an essay on the 1700's to study the fashion of women. However, this information is very limited and if anyone have any more information on it I would love to hear it so I can extend my knowledge. Also be aware that this essay was written in a night and a morning, so there may be errors or repetitive statements.
Fashion in the 1700's is a strange thing to me for the main reason of the quick evolution from hooped skirts and high heels to flowing dresses and flat slippers.In the beginning of the era the idea of fashion was wealth, epicurean-ism and over abundance. Horse riding, town dances, flower picking and the like were the images of beauty by the end of the 1700's. Both the beauty and the hilarity of the fashion in the 1770's has been remembered even today. It is also the fashion that created the macaroni, the idea of the over exaggerated ways of the fashionable in that day.
Since the mantua was used extensively throughout the centuries it had evolved in many ways. Though the description I give is for the 1700's of it's being worn. The mantua was a sort of coat with an extended body used as both an upper body covering and an additional skirt. The mantua was to display silk designs and often was a show of wealth. Since it was usually made from a fabric that had a continuous design, it was draped rather than cut. It was pleated at the shoulders and continued to fall to the waist whereupon it was held in place by another piece of fabric, usually a sash. From that place it was folded back into a bustle, resting at the back of the woman's body.
The name of the mantua may be derived from Mantua, Italy where expensive silks were produced. It may also come from the french word for coat or the 'mantle', which is from the latin word 'mantellum' for cloak.
There were several types of gowns used during the 1700's though they all shared the prospect of using many rich fabrics to show off wealth. Usually the gowns were heavily decorated at the front though there were some that were decorated all around or ones that only consisted of a well embroidered fabric. The sleeves often fell halfway of the arm and left off to several ruffles from the shift or chemise beneath.
The Court Dress was the fanciest and most regulated formal dress of the time. The rules of the court dress were very rigid, requiring five feet diameter panniers. They were required to involve a train, an amount of cloth that trailed behind the dress onto the floor, and a headdress with feathers. Court dresses usually had sleeves that fell either right above the elbows or to the elbows. The ends of the sleeves were adorned with longer ruffles. Like many other gowns, this style of dress also showed off the chemise underneath.
The French Robe(Robe a la francaise) or sack-back gown was a style that had fabric arranged in box pleats along with a body of fabric that formed a train from the shoulders. In the front the gown was open showing off a decorated stomacher and the petticoat which was equally decorated. The sleeves were usually elbow length with a good amount of ruffles to trim them. The sleeves were also worn with seperate frills called engageantes. By the 1770's it was second only to the court dress in formality.
The stomacher was a piece of clothing that had been used well before the 1700's, but was usually revealed during the 1700's. It was a decorated panel that was shaped in a triangle worn at the front of the torso. It may have been boned or been a part of a corset- or may have just covered the front part of the corset. If this were so- if the stomacher was simply decorative, it may be laced or stitched into place.
Gowns and bodices were often worn to show off the stomacher which was often decorated with gems, pearls, embroidery and etc. Though at first the bodices lacings would cross over the stomacher, they were soon replaced with a series of decorative bows. Underneath the stomacher there was the fichu. Thee fichu was a piece of lace or linen that would be worn to fill in the low neckline of the stomacher.
The necklines of the stomacher were usually above the breasts, however for a breif period they were below the breasts. During this time the breasts were safely covered by a ruffle of fabric, the fichu. Though at this time the breasts themselves were decorated the fashion didn't entirely take hold and the necklines of the stomacher ranged from modest to daring but still covered the breasts.
The smock, shift or chemise had a low neckline and could be compared to a long shirt. They were used to protect the more ornate clothing from oil and dirt from the skin.
The chemise was full in the beginning of the 1700's but as time went by they became narrower, fitting the style of clothing as the years progressed. The sleeves were also had full sleeves at the beginning of the 1700's but soon turned into tight sleeves that fell to the elbows.
The tigher sleeves of the chemise ranged from simple to ornate and often showed from under the gown worn above.
During the 1740's, hoop skirts were replaced by panniers that held skirts out to the side, giving the facade of wide hips and a long, narrow waist. This appearance was helped with the heavily boned 'stays' with a wide front, narrow back and shoulder straps. How much the panniers stuck out differed from a slight curve to a curve that made the dress look more like a canvas than a gown.
On the stays, the straps soon disappeared. Along with this they started to be cut higher towards the armpits, forcing women to stand at a fashionable posture. The look was practically what you'd imagine a human bell to look like- a narrow, cone-like body with large widened hips. Stays were usually laced very comfortably as opposed to the later corsets. One thing to notice is that during this time a womans waist usually measured at a larger size while wearing stays rather than a smaller size.
During the 1780's panniers had practically disappeared and were replaced by bustle pads to make the rump appear fuller. Simply put, they had cast away panniers in favor of petticoats which may be for comfort.
In the 1790's skirts were still full but gave lesser aesthetic appearance of enhanced curves in the woman's body. Stays were also cast away while corsets continued to be used in daily fashion. Needless to say, the French fashion was toned down by the influences of the English fashions.
Thinned waistlines rather than over busheled hips and rears were all the rage now, as neo-classicism was taking over. Though the stays of several years before was cast aside, tightly laced corsets were more abundant, which gave way to the use of 'The Fainting Room' where women could go to rest if they felt faint due to their tightly laced corsets.
Shoes during the 1700's resembled a high heel slipper from today. However, they were usually more ornate, modeling gems, silks and other materials to signify how wealthy the person was. They had high, curved heels, pointed toes, were tied over the instep and were made of either leather or fabric.
Shoe buckles were worn as ornaments in higher society much like the aforementioned materials. The buckles were made of polished metal and even sometimes had faux gems cut from smaller pieces of metal. Buckles were sometimes comedic-ally large. The style of this shoe would remain popular well into the next period and technically into the modern day.
Hairstyles and Headdresses:
The mid 1700's were known for their extreme hairstyles and were commonly made fun of by local artists who would muse about even larger, towering bouffant hair. Decorative objects were often added to the already ridiculous hairstyles, sometimes creating actual pieces of artwork that could only be compared to the modern parade float of today.
However, by the 1780's, elaborate hats replaced elaborate hairstyles. The mob cap arose- a round, gathered or pleated cloth bonnet with a ruffled or frilled brim along with a ribbon band.
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Friday, May 7, 2010
My handle is Sweet Camillia, though you can call me Lola. I am an avid seamstress, artist and custom content creator for theSims2. I'm a theorized child prodigy without the fame and a philosopher of the what and why. Most of all I'm a love of everything cute and everything 'kick-ass' such as dragons, Metalocalypse, Monster Hunter and custom blades. Though I am a Lolita who loves frilly, fluffy, poofy and cute things I am also rather tough. If you catch me outside of Lolita clothes I am very brash, honest and impatient. This is mainly because I dress however I feel- and most of the time I feel like a princess. I have a beautiful fiance with dark almond eyes, long lashes, arched eyebrows, wavy hair, full lips, well shaped nose, slender body and long thin neck. The only thing is that he's a male. Nonetheless, he is very pretty and looks just as good in Lolita clothing as I do. <3
1. Best Lolita fashion advice you've ever received? I've never recieved Lolita fashion advise- I just went with what I felt was good enough. Though I never wore Lolita out until I was eighteen while I technically started when I was fifteen, it just took me that long to really bloom. I have had revelations such as 'Accesories can make or break an outfit' and 'For Winter just wear layers, your legs can take it.'
2. Style icons? I rarely have any style icons for Lolita except for a local well known girl- MintyMix Kammie. Though I adore her for he good nature and talent in making accesories. There's no one else that comes to mind...
3. Describe your personal style. Sweet, princessy and rich. Elegance is one step behind cute for me- and cute is almost everything. I love my outfits to be completed with accesories and add-ons to complete the look of things.
4. Favorite designers/brands? Baby the Stars Shine Bright for it's always impressive designs and always good quality. If I weren't spending so much money on making my own clothes I would buy a lavender jumper or a light pink- and top it off with a knit cardigan with bunny ears. Angelic Pretty is more of an inspirational drive for me since I can't see myself really buying a lot of their clothes. Though I must admit they'd be fun patterns and ideas to recreate. I do like other brands, though not enough to keep up with and list out.
5. Most cherished items? Every piece of clothing I make is cherished. Several times I think that if my home was burning they were the first things I'd rescue. A lot of love and time went into those.
6. Most used item? My cream underskirt for containing the poof- I hate it when your petticoat is so rebellious that it poofs up like a tutu- and mine seem to like doing that. For those times I'm always afraid my underthings are showing... So I wear a cream underskirt with a shirred waist. It's comfortable too!
7. I feel best wearing? Anything that's cute. You can still catch me in my summer yukatas during the warmer months but during winter I'll always be wearing layers of skirts and frills. I feel best when I feel pretty.
8. The first thing I look for in another Lolita's outfit... The perfect feel is what I look for. It may seem strange but there are particular fabrics I hate wearing- especially things with prints since they feel too stiff to me. Though the main thing I look for is good composition and the 'CUTE!' factor.
9. Lolita Fashion rule you never break? Never over the knees. Since I'm short people wouldn't even notice, but I honestly hate showing off my upper legs or even my knees in public. Even my swimsuit consists of shorts and a top. Also, when your skirt is over the knees it just seems like one of those outfits you see in adult novelty stores.
10. Never caught wearing? I will never be caught wearing... Bodyline One-Pieces. I wore one once, didn't fit right, skirt too high, detachable sleeves consticting and falling off a lot, cheap frills, crappy elastic and overall just falling apart completely. Needless to say I had cut the thing up and used the pieces for a cardigan and a petticoat. Comfortable Petticoat though.
11. Dress to impress who? Myself. Who cares about those guys? <3
12. Your next "must have" purchase? About five yards of soft lavender fabric to make me a good Summertime jumper. <3
13. Favorite type of head accessory? Bonnets. I make my own bonnets and I love each one. Though, these are things I wear during the Winter. In the Summer I wear super big bows right smack in the middle of the top of my head.
14. Favorite cut of clothing (shirring, high waist, princess seams etc)? Shirring is easy to put on and wear- but then all the other cuts have their own charm and use in outfits... Still, shirring is so comfortable for me...
15. Current obsession? Prints. I want to make my own prints but lack the materials and knowledge. I once tried looking up how to make my own prints- but nothing was reliable enough for me to go though with it. Darned internets!
16. Best Lolita fashion advice you can give to anyone: Being able to buy or make clothing means nothing if you can't wear it and both feel proud and give the air of awe. Before you splurge on clothing make sure you actually know how to wear it.
How did you first get into Lolita?
Throughout my years I was a game junky. During a custom content downloading spree for theSims2 I spotted a BtSSB jumper download and fell in love with how it looked. many searches on the internet later I had consumed every bit of information I found and started to theorize the style in my own head. This was when I was fifteen.
What is your current favorite piece in your Lolita wardrobe?
My Mother Goose jumper and my Falling Roses jumper I made. I have several others I adore- though these top the list since my Mother Goose is a perfect fit while my Falling Roses has an embroidered skirt that I did myself. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rules I've broken:
1) I wear no socks or stockings during the Summer; just my comfy black slippers. Since the weather is so hot there's no need being uncomfortable when you're supposed to feel good.
2) I don't wear blouses undr Jumper Skirts during the Summer. Same reason as number two. Since I'm so skinny there's nothing to show off that's considered sexually appealing, not to mention I usually wear a light cardigan over it. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Things I Hate:
1) People who wear Lolita clothing just to show off. They usually don't give off a very charming air... and aren't the best people to talk to.
2) People who splurge on brands but don't wear the clothes right... If you're going to spend money on something, you should at least wear it right...
3) Bodyline knock-off issues... I can understand copying cuts to recreate a certain shape, but to actually copy someone's art is taboo for me.
My fiance had a blouse he got from an acquaintance which was very nice. It just had the ugliest, cheapest lace I had ever seen. I wore this blouse during Momocon when I dressed as a French Maid. After Momocon I immediately starting changing out the lace for better quality lace I had on the side as well as extending the cuffs to fit my beloved.
After uploading memorable photos onto an internet community site, one of my fiance's acquaintances, the same one who got him the blouse, uploaded a Bodyline JSK that they were planning on selling. Of course they wore it with no blouse even though it was a cut that really, -really- needed a blouse to be worn with it. I notified the person of this and they seemed to be insulted, claimed I sounded like someone off of live journal and insisted that my Maid cosplay had no body and that the lace was cheap. [The wierd thing is was that it was a French Maid cosplay to match my fiance's cosplay of Ash Crimson from KoF]
The funniest thing is that the skirt had ruffles while the blouse had cheap lace- which was the same blouse that the person had bought themself. I questioned their accusations and they claimed that I wasn't a Lolita and was a Visual Kei. After I threatened to claim her as a personal enemy for her volatile behavior she backed off since my fiance was very infamous for his strength, temper and bad tantrums. I guess anyone would assume I was something to be feared for being able to handle him. Needless to say, I got a good laugh out of that experience along with some of my good friends. I still share it because of it's hilarity.